The dark side of Nigeria’s beverage industry

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In this report, GBENGA OLONINIRAN writes about the alarming rise of fake drinks in the country and their devastating impact on unsuspecting consumers, leading to kidney, liver, and brain issues

In 2021, the consumption of “substandard and fake” juices in Kano State claimed the lives of at least 10 people, while 50 others battled severe kidney-related illnesses.

The then-state Commissioner for Health, Ibrahim Tsanyawa, disclosed these harrowing details during an update on the tragic outbreak. He emphasised that the fake beverages wreaked havoc on vital organs, particularly the kidneys.

In a video shared with journalists in April 2021, Tsanyawa explained that out of the 400 people hospitalised due to the outbreak, 50 individuals were receiving treatment for kidney-related conditions.

“As you are aware, the Ministry of Health recently announced the outbreak of a strange disease traceable to the consumption of substandard juices,” he said. “The consumption of this fake and substandard product has telling effects on the kidney and other vital organs of the body.”

Tragically, the crisis continued into 2023 when eight more people died, and 11 others were left in critical condition after consuming alcoholic drinks at various locations in Ogun State. The state’s Special Adviser to the Governor on Health, Dr. Tomi Coker, confirmed these incidents in July 2023, issuing a stark warning to residents.

Coker stressed the grave risks associated with consuming locally brewed drinks and products not approved by the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control. She noted that the alarming incidents occurred between July 18 and 20, 2023, in the Ijebu North-East and Odogbolu local government areas.

She expressed concern over the unauthorised production and distribution of alcoholic beverages, warning that such practices posed significant health risks. “Such substances can lead to severe health complications and, in some cases, fatal outcomes, as evidenced by the recent incidents in Ijebu North-East and Odogbolu LGAs,” she said.

Booming fake drinks industry

Nigeria’s fake drinks industry is huge, with counterfeiters producing a wide range of adulterated beverages, including wines, soft drinks, and spirits. In a recent single clampdown, NAFDAC seized and destroyed fake drinks worth N750m and arrested 10 culprits in the South-East.

In December 2023, NAFDAC razed about 240 shops in Abia State, intercepting counterfeiters involved in the production of a variety of beverages including wines, soft drinks and consumables in Eziukwu Market (Cemetery Market), Aba.

The operation followed “several weeks of intelligence gathering and collation of data on the activities of these merchants of death,” the agency said in a statement published on its website.

The agency revealed that some of the activities of the counterfeiters included the manufacturing of all kinds of adulterated products especially different kinds of wine from a wide variety of brands ranging from Seaman Schnapps, Hennessy, Four Cousins, Carlo Rossi, Jenney, Chelsea London Dry Gin, Schnapp Dry Gin, McDowells, Black Labels, Gordons, Martell, Campari, Smirnoff Ice, Eva Non-Alcoholic Drink, Evra Non-Alcoholic Drink, Cartel, and others.

“There is also date revalidation for expired products like Peak Milk, powdered milk, yoghurt, Coca-Cola products, and packaging of fake and substandard products, which are later sold to unsuspecting members of the public for consumption.

“Because of the extensive operation, the agency raided over 240 shops-turned-factories where the harmful products were being produced and marketed.

“The shops-turned-factories are very filthy, using water from very unhygienic sources, harmful chemicals, saccharin, colouring, dirty recycled bottles, and cloned packaging materials of other brands. The adulteration of alcoholic beverages by criminal elements in the country is done by mixing of cheaper sources of sugar and starch besides grapes or fruit, among other harmful chemicals unsuitable for human consumption,” NAFDAC said.

Over N500m worth of fake drinks have been reported seized in Lagos State this year as of the time of compiling this report in September 2024.

Among the drinks found in the custody of an illegal drink manufacturer in the Badagry area of Lagos during a raid on his hideout by NAFDAC in May 2024, were fake Hennessey drinks.

According to NAFDAC, its enforcement officers, aided by intelligence from the Nigerian Army’s 15 Field Engineering Regiment in Badagry, dismantled the operations of the suspect identified as Chinedu Okafor, who operated from his residence at 24, MTN Road, Badagry.

“Okafor’s suspicious activities caught the attention of the Nigerian Army, leading to his arrest and subsequent handover to NAFDAC officers at the Ports Inspection Directorate, Seme Border. Upon inspection, officers evacuated all equipment and materials used in the production of illicit drinks, effectively shutting down the illegal factory.

“Investigations revealed Okafor’s longstanding involvement in this criminal activity, which has potentially compromised regulated alcohol drinks in the Badagry area,” NAFDAC said in a statement on X.com.

The agency said Okafor would face prosecution, and all the fake products would be destroyed, “with an estimated value exceeding N50m.”

In June, the Lagos State Police Command arrested two men for producing adulterated alcoholic drinks at Oko-Arin Market on the Lagos Island.

According to the command’s spokesperson, Benjamin Hundeyin, detectives arrested the suspects following credible information “that a group of boys were sighted at the Oke-Arin Market allegedly producing fake alcoholic drinks.”

“Items recovered from the suspects included five cartons of Jack Daniels drink, two cartons of Black Barrel drink, one carton of Williams Lawson drink and one carton of Jameson drink,” Hundeyin said.

NAFDAC enforcement officers also uncovered an illegal facility producing various alcoholic beverages in the same area on Lagos Island in August.

In a statement obtained by The PUNCH, the agency said after thorough surveillance, its officers discovered that several packing stores and rooms in the Oke-Arin market had been converted into makeshift factories where different brands of alcoholic drinks were being produced, packaged, and distributed in the open market.

“During the raid, over 2,000 cartons of empty bottles and already packaged drinks were seized, along with a mini plastic mixing tank, an improvised filter, and various packaging materials. Three suspects were arrested in connection with the illegal operation.

“NAFDAC has estimated the street value of the seized items at N200m and is urging the public to remain vigilant, especially when purchasing alcoholic beverages,” the agency said in a statement published on its social media handles.

In March, the agency noted that illegal activities involving the production and distribution of various brands of alcoholic beverages were uncovered at the Trade Fair Complex in Lagos.

The officers discovered unauthorised production facilities operating within Shop 34, Shop 17/24, and Attachment 17/2 in Niger 4 Plaza.

“The team found mini plastic mixing tanks, improvised filters, cartons of empty bottles with intact labels, corks, packaging materials, and already produced and packaged drinks.

“Over 3,452 cartons of empty and filled bottles, valued at over N250m, were seized and evacuated from the location,” the agency wrote in a release.

In July 2024, NAFDAC shut down about 100 shops in Ogbete Market, Enugu for allegedly dealing in suspected fake alcoholic beverages.

The agency also confiscated a truckload of adulterated products and effected some arrests in the process.

The Director of the South-East Zone of the regulatory body, Martins Iluyomade, said the suspects would be charged in court after the investigation.

“These fake wine and alcoholic beverages are being sold to unsuspected customers and the general public but we are determined to rid the market of these unwholesome products,” he said.

Kidney, liver diseases soar

A 2019 study published in the Nigerian Journal of Clinical Practice estimated that the prevalence of chronic kidney disease in Nigeria was around 23.8 per cent.

The Nigerian Kidney Association estimates that about one in five Nigerians have some form of kidney disease.

Scientists identify environmental toxins, including from fake drinks, as one of the major drivers of kidney diseases.

In 2023, popular and award-winning Nigerian cinematographer and music producer, ThankGod Omori, confirmed being hospitalised following the consumption of fake drinks.

In late December that year, the producer wrote on X via @boy_director, “It’s all fun (and) jokes but fake drinks left me hospitalised most part of this year.”

Just under his post, another user @ArcMaxB commented, “Not funny at all, I almost lost my life early February this year. Since then, all I take is water!”

Omori would later be battling a kidney problem in 2024. However, there is no medical report suggesting a link of his condition to the consumption of fake drinks.

The renowned music producer, who underwent a kidney transplant on August 26, 2024, at St. Nicholas Hospital in Lagos, revealed that he received support from industry colleagues and friends.

A drink seller at a store in the Berger area of Lagos, Damilola Olakayode, blamed the consumption of fake drinks on rising costs.

He told our correspondent that people would rather go for cheaper drinks at a fake store than buy where it was expensive, “but they wouldn’t know it’s fake.”

“As a drink seller, I can say that the price of drinks has increased beyond what an average man could afford. Even Captain Jack, the sachet size, that used to sell for just N50 is now N150. Origin bitters – plastic – that used to be N300/N350 is now N1,000. So imagine the price of larger drinks.

“With the situation of the country, what seems to be the alternative for many to ease their thinking is taking alcohol, but they have been deprived by the prices. Many youths that come here take drinks to distract themselves from the reality of Nigeria.

“But wouldn’t it be more appreciated if the drinks, as expensive as they are, are also of quality? But no, there are several fake drinks out there despite the cost,” Olakayode said.

He warned, “One needs to be very careful and watchful and look at the product they are buying before consuming it these days. Health they say is wealth. The government needs to be more responsible and take charge of curbing these evil ones doing this act.”

Fun seekers, clubbers at risk

Unsuspecting lovers of alcohol are likely to be quick to buy their favourite brands at any regular and unregulated store, becoming prone to poisonous substances made by predating manufacturers.

The situation will be more ironic for clubbers who may actually be paying exorbitant “club price” for drinks that may be fake if there is no patience or mechanism in place to check the originality.

Fake drinks have not been limited to the cheap ones in sachets or handy plastics, investigations have revealed that the illegal manufacturers go for the expensive drinks to make more money.

In September, our correspondent had random chats with some clubbers. At Club Royale in Ikeja, Lagos, fun seekers explained how they made sure they avoided consuming fake drinks.

“You have to consider the kind of places you go. For me, I patronise standard clubs like this place for instance. I don’t go to the cheap ones because what is cheap can be deadly too. I usually check the manufacturing and expiry dates, and the product, the logo, the design of the drinks. I also make sure the cap is locked very well,” a man, identified simply as Jide, said at the club.

“But it can be very scary when people fall sick or even die from consuming fake drinks. I pray it doesn’t happen to us, we’re just here to have fun,” he added as he danced and sipped his liquor.

Another man, Moyinoluwa Daniel, lamented that fake drinks had become a menace in the country and not just at relaxation centres.

“This is not just about alcohol but also carbonated drinks. A few weeks ago, NAFDAC stormed some states on discovering the production of fake drinks, carbonated drinks precisely, and even sachet water. That is to tell you how bad it has become.

“There was a trend on X some months ago with people sharing their ordeals, pictures of fake drink bottles mistaken for original, including malts,” Daniel said.

He urged NAFDAC to be more proactive while commending it for a job well done, adding, “However, the effect of these (fake) drinks is hazardous to health.”

In an advisory seen on its website in September, NAFDAC said bad smells were one of the signs of fake drinks. The agency advised people to place a premium on 3Ps – Place, Packaging and Product.

On price, it said, “If the product is being sold well below its normal price, or doesn’t seem to include normal taxes on liquors, then it is probably fake.”

For packaging, it advised consumers to “check for poor quality packaging, spelling mistakes and unusually shaped bottles. Look for the contact information and address of the manufacturer. If it is missing, the alcohol is fake. Inspect the seal on the bottle. If the seal is broken or damaged, then the contents might have been interfered with and are not safe to drink. Check for fake bar codes.”

On product, the agency warned, “Beware of bad smells! If it smells like paint stripper or nail polish remover, then it probably is (fake)!”

Fake drinks kill – Experts

Alcohol kills nearly three million people annually according to the World Health Organisation.

While the death rate had dropped slightly in recent years, it remained “unacceptably high,” the United Nations agency said in June 2024.

A professor of Public Health at the University of Ilorin and a Consultant Public Health Physician at the University of Ilorin Teaching Hospital, Tanimola Akande, noted that adulterated alcoholic drinks were produced in unhygienic conditions and with chemicals that are dangerous to the body.

Such drinks, according to him, can cause acute and chronic gastrointestinal problems with symptoms of abdominal pain, diarrhea, and vomiting.

“Such drinks may also contain toxins that can damage body organs like the kidney, liver, and even the brain and may lead to liver cirrhosis, renal impairment, and some neurological disorders. They can also affect the cardiovascular and nervous systems. In severe cases, it may lead to death.

“It is, therefore, important that individuals are vigilant to ensure they get their drinks from reliable and trusted sources. NAFDAC also has a role to play by improving surveillance to detect the production and sales of such drinks. Appropriate sanctions that can stop such practices need to be implemented by relevant authorities,” the don explained.

Also, a professor of Public Health at the University of Ibadan, Oladimeji Oladepo, said a lot of chemicals used in making fake wines are most likely highly injurious to human beings and the public.

He explained that such drinks would affect the liver.

“That means the liver won’t be able to perform a lot of its functions. And therefore, what will happen is that the person will have liver cirrhosis. The person will likely have jaundice and some other signs. And once the liver cells continue to die, then the person is already dying because it’s going to affect all the other organs in the body. There’s a connectivity between the liver, the kidneys, the heart, and so on. So that’s a problem, a big, big problem,” Prof. Oladepo said.

He added, “And, of course, the aspect of mental health is also there because intoxication of chemicals is likely to affect the mental health of the people who are consuming them.

“High-class people are most likely to be affected and could also damage the kidneys. The kidneys will just pack up, which is a problem. It will continue to affect the heart. High intoxication, of course, will cause cardiac problems. It will cause cardiac arrest. And you know people are now falling and dying now.”

On control, he stressed that “NAFDAC is supposed to control that through not only policies, but to have people on the ground going to those particular shops, taking samples, testing it there, destroying, and putting a lot of taxation on those particular shops or closing them down. And they should go to the roots where such wines are produced. Because for me, such production centres are genocide chambers. I regard them as genocide chambers, killing a lot of people.”

The don expressed fear that people think they are purchasing well-controlled alcohol, “whereas they are drinking a lot of very, very dangerous chemicals that are mixed with probably little alcohol and so forth.”

He advised that NAFDAC should strengthen the regulation of drinks.

Oladepo said, “The regulatory bodies should come up, not sitting down in their offices. I think they should just go for it, go for the jugular of these particular people, and ensure that those people who are caught, I do not know what the maximum sentence in the court of law is, but they should face the maximum penalty and all their factories destroyed.

“Because from my point of view, it requires very, very serious interventions, not only by the government but also in conjunction with the law enforcement agents, as well as the population, including the health workers and the health facilities.

“So because some of these particular people who are affected will be brought to such facilities, and there will be a form of notification, quick notification to NAFDAC and to security agents to come and arrest those people who are responsible for the production. People should know the shops where they bought the wines and so on and so forth.”

He noted that young people were most likely to be affected, adding “And that creates a double burden for the country.”

“I think a lot of public education is important, on the radio, on the television, on the newspapers and newsprints and so on and so forth.

“And the fake ones which they find should be well publicised in such a way that the public can be well aware and avoid such products. That’s very, very important.

“So the issue of public education is critical.”

NAFDAC prosecuting suspects

In an interview with our correspondent, the spokesperson for NAFDAC, Christy Obiazikwor, explained that the agency was arresting and prosecuting suspects involved in the production of adulterated drinks.

“We prosecute the offenders. We take them to court and prosecute them,” she told The PUNCH.

“Aside from Lagos, we have prosecutions in the North, and all over the federation. Like our Lagos lawyer told me, he has 60 cases on his table. So that is how we are prosecuting them all over the country,” she added, explaining that the prosecution serves as deterrence.

Obiazikwor also explained that the agency was carrying out sensitisation programmes on television stations, radio and the newspapers.

“We also sensitise school children to drug abuse. At the National Youth Service Corps, we also go for sensitisation campaigns and talk to them,” she said.

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